IT was my first time in Texas, a state I’d long wanted to visit.
And, after watching the brilliant Landman show set there, starring Billy Bob Thornton, I decided it was time to fulfil that ambition.
But I didn’t want to go to those well-known Texan cities, like Dallas or Houston. I was looking for a taste of the real Southern State for my first introduction, where the old lives in harmony with the new.
And San Antonio fitted that brief perfectly.
Just 90 minutes’ drive from Austin airport, ‘San An’ is the second biggest city in the state with 1.5million inhabitants but it really doesn’t feel like a ‘big’ city.
One of the most striking features about the downtown area is the lack of skyscrapers that dominate most US cities.
Sure, there are some, just not in the main hub which is full of beautifully preserved, original buildings.
My base was the stunning St Anthony Hotel right in the heart of downtown, a luxury hotel which dates back to 1909.
My massive suite had great views of the city and as well as the superb rooms, beautiful design and fantastic service, the St Anthony also has a real ace up its sleeve in the shape of the rooftop infinity pool.
San Antonio’s biggest draw remains The Alamo, the Spanish mission where Texans fought for independence from the Mexicans in 1836.
The original site is superbly well preserved and you can spend hours wandering around the museum, church and new additions which tell the incredible story of the Alamo.
With a multi-million dollar visitor centre and museum due to be completed in 2027, there’s no doubt it will remain the city’s No1 attraction and rightly so.
Another part of the city’s massive regeneration is the Pearl, beside the San Antonio River.
This amazing space is an incredible leisure and entertainment hub, home to a huge choice of restaurants, bars, boutique hotels, live music venues, an amazing farmers market and trendy stores.
My dinner stop was at the Southerleigh Food and Brewery Restaurant and having heard so many good reviews I certainly wasn’t disappointed. They brew their own beer and a few different lagers hit the spot, as did my incredible starter of jumbo gulf shrimp, so good I ordered it twice! But there ain’t no steak like a Texas steak — I still dream of the 10oz ribeye I devoured that night.
San Antonio is famous for its River Walk. It’s around 15 miles long and goes right through the heart of the city.
The best and most fun way to experience it is by joining one of the boat cruises. Take a yard glass of Margarita and enjoy the twinkling lights and stunning sights as you meander along.
Other must see attractions include the iconic Tower of Americas, built in 1986 for the world’s fair. It offers incredible views of the city plus you can dine in the Chart House revolving restaurant at the top.
There’s also a fantastic zoo in the heart of the city, as well as stunning botanical gardens and parks aplenty.
Saying a reluctant farewell to San An, the next stop on my Texas tour was around an hour’s drive north to the university city of San Marcos.
With a population of around 75,000, I was definitely back to small town Texas. And given that it’s the home to Texas State University it’s no surprise San Marcos is a party town with the accent on music, fun, festivals, parks, parades and more music. I stayed at the stunning Crystal River Inn, a short stroll from the downtown area, with rooms designed in the style of the 1940s but with a modern twist.
Right next door was the legendary Zelicks bar, a great place to meet locals (who aren’t students), enjoy fantastic beer, tasty burgers and plenty of live music to get the party going.
The next day I was greeted by the Mermaid Capital of Texas Festival. Yup Mermaids.
A vast array of floats and filled with mermaids of all shapes, sizes, ages, female and male with incredibly designed outfits. It’s amazing.
The parade ended after an impressive two hours, and then it seemed the whole of San Marcos gathered at the Plaza Park for a Music and Arts festival.
As well as the excellent all-day live music there were plenty of stalls to visit, along with excellent food and beer trucks — add in brilliant sunshine and we had the perfect day in the park.
Now everyone knows BBQ is THE go-to food in Texas and that night I got to sample one of the finest authentic joints in the state at Black’s BBQ.
There are a few Black’s dotted around the state but the San Marcos restaurant is the original one. It has a fantastic atmosphere and a real throwback to old school southern food. Among the many highlights of my fabulous feast were the baby back ribs and the beef brisket.
I headed back to downtown after my magnificent meal to enjoy another few hours of excellent live music in a few of the many bars where the party goes on until late.
The final stop on my trip through Texas Hill Country was the luxury bolthole of Camp Lucy and THE perfect way to relax after a hectic week.
It’s based deep in the countryside but only a few minutes drive from the beautiful old America meets new America town of Dripping Springs.
The massive sprawling ranch is next level in luxury. My huge, beautifully designed, cottage came complete with living room, kitchen, dining area, bedroom and bathroom, as well as outside garden.
It was truly exceptional and it was right next door to the Camp’s main hub complete with restaurant bar and fantastic pool and sunbathing area.
I knew I was somewhere very special as soon as I arrived, and, while it was very tempting just to chill and enjoy a bit of R&R, Camp Lucy also provides a daily programme of activities for guests including vineyard tours and outdoor sports.
After a day of savouring the next level facilities, I found the perfect way to round off the day with dinner at the magnificent Tillie’s restaurant where the food and wine were both fantastic — matched by first-class service.
Tillie’s also puts on a superb breakfast and brunch but in the evening is when it really shines. Go for the jumbo crab cake to start followed by the mouthwatering Texas pork chop and end with the chocolate nostalgia and you’ll just have eaten the near perfect meal.
I fell asleep on my last night feeling glad I’d finally made it to the Lone Star state but sad I had to leave.
For now I’ll need to rely on Billy Bob and Landman to sate my Texan thirst until I go back, which will be very, very soon.