By: Jane Canapini | From: Grown Up Travels

The Camino de Santiago de Compostela is perhaps the most well-known religious pilgrimage route in the Christian world. Although there are many starting points in and throughout different European countries, all roads and paths lead to one place, the Cathedral in Compostela, Spain, the reputed burial place of Saint James. What you may not know (and certainly Henk and I did not) is that Texas has its own El Camino de San Antonio, involving 5 stops along a 14-mile (22.5km) route, and this route also has a connection to the European Camino.

Although Henk and I had come to San Antonio to celebrate the Day of the Dead, not on a pilgrimage, we took this opportunity to learn about the El Camino de San Antonio Missions and their people, and their historical contributions to Texan history and culture. We also discovered another unexpected connection when exploring these Missions…

The History and People of the Missions in San Antonio

After the discovery of North America by European explorers, Christian missionaries soon followed and by the early late 1600s had begun to establish religious communities, known as Missions, throughout the ‘New World’. These settlements played a huge role in what would become the spiritual and cultural development of the southwestern United States. Much more than just a church, missions became the centre of the community not only for the white settlers but eventually for the local indigenous people who had lived for thousands of years in what is now South Texas. And that interaction between cultures would also influence the genealogical history of this region…

Before the arrival of the Spanish, there were dozens of indigenous tribes in the San Antonio region, collectively known as Coahuiltecans, who were living a nomadic lifestyle moving to wherever food sources were available. But once Franciscan missionaries like Father Antonio Margil de Jesús began to establish Missions that offered more reliable food sources – plus protection from other marauding tribes – the Coahuiltecans became part of these Mission communities. Soldiers, Spanish settlers and Indigenous locals intermingled here, and their mixed-race descendants, mestizos, became the people who built, worked, and lived inside and around these Missions.

Today, the descendants of these people are known as Tejanos, a unique group of people whose cultural heritage reflects Indigenous, Mexican and Spanish ancestors. Many of them are still active members of the current parishes that are part of El Camino de San Antonio, a pilgrimage trail between 5 missions that was officially established in 2021.

Origins of the El Camino de San Antonio

The trail that was to become El Camino de San Antonio began organically with the first people to walk it, Franciscan missionaries. These spiritual leaders travelled a route alongside the San Antonio River, moving from local community to local community to introduce Christianity to the indigenous peoples, and minister to the European Christians who had already settled in the area. This led to the establishment of a large network of Missions, 4 of which survive today in the greater San Antonio area that, together with the San Fernando Cathedral in downtown San Antonio, form the 5 stops along the Camino de San Antonio.

The 5 Stops on El Camino de San Antonio

Some of the trail that connects the 5 Camino churches still follows close to the banks of the San Antonio river and had been a popular walking trail for years before the establishment of the route as an official pilgrimage trail. Now, pilgrims who choose to walk the official 14-mile route can complete it in whichever direction they choose, in stages, or all at once, taking as long as needed. The choice is a personal one, just like the spiritual journey that it is meant to be.

Many people choose to start their journey at the San Fernando Cathedral in downtown San Antonio, which although it is not a Mission per se, is perhaps the most architecturally impressive church on the route.

1. San Fernando Cathedral

The original San Fernando Cathedral was a simpler version than the one you see today and was completed in 1750.But over time it suffered considerable damage from floods, fire and age. A major reconstruction took place in the mid-1800s, giving its its current Gothic Revival architectural style, but some of the original walls were incorporated into the new structure.

Throughout its 275-year history and all its repairs and iterations, San Fernando has remained the oldest continuously-functioning Cathedral in the United States and to this day continues to symbolize the spiritual heart and soul of San Antonio.

TIP: The history and significance of the Cathedral is brought to life 5 nights a week via The Saga, a digital projection that uses the church facade as its canvas, with visual storytelling that illustrates the history of San Antonio and Texas in a beautiful multi-media interpretive show that is set to music. (It’s an open-air attraction that is a must-do for visitors to the city, and absolutely free which is an added bonus!)

2. Mission Concepción

Three miles from San Fernando Cathedral is the Mission Nuestra Señora de la Purísima Concepción de Acuña, or Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception, named after the Virgin Mary. Built in 1755, this Mission holds the title of oldest unrestored stone church in the United States (although its dome did receive some structural reinforcement which was completed in 2020).

Known for its original frescoes (some of which remain), Mission Concepción once had colourful exterior decoration as well, but none of that is visible today. The interior frescoes, however, can still be viewed on some of the walls and ceilings.

3. Mission San José

Founded by Franciscan Father Antonio Margil de Jesús over 300 years ago, Mission San José y San Miguel de Aguayo is considered the ‘Queen of Missions’ and one of the most beautiful in the U.S. Henk and I have to agree with this assessment, as we found so many opportunities for photographs here.

We weren’t the only ones who found this church a worthy artistic subject: there was a local art class doing some en plein air art painting of the church as well.

Henk and I were particularly interested to see one of the Mission’s unique features, its Rose Window, where it is believed that priests used to distribute the Eucharist to people gathered outside. But there is a mystery surrounding this feature too: first of all, it’s on the side where the sacristy is, not in a more prominant place where you would expect to find such an elegant feature; secondly, no one really knows where it got its name. There’s one romantic legend that it was created by a sculptor in honour of his lover, Rosa, and that the real name is ‘Rosa’s Window’. But that is more the stuff of romance novels than history. Today it is believed to more likely have been named after Saint Rosa of LIma, the first saint of the New World.

This Mission is also considered special because of Father Jesús himself, who had already founded hundreds of missions throughout Central America and was reputed to have performed miracles during his life of religious service.

4. Mission San Juan Capistrano

This Mission actually moved from east Texas to San Antonio in 1731 and has the distinction of being the closest mission to the San Antonio River. This proximity to the river was critical for all the Missions, both for crop irrigation and as a water source for the people who lived in and near them. At Mission San Juan you can still see examples of the 18th century water channels or “acequias” that were constructed to transport water from the river to the Mission and that are still working today.

5. Mission San Francisco de la Espada

This Mission is the smallest and oldest of the five on El Camino de San Antonio, but at its peak in the early 1700s, it was home to more than 100 indigenous converts who raised over 1000 head of cattle here, manufactured bricks and made textiles as well. Today many pilgrims come here to pray in front of a crucifix that holds a relic of Pope John Paul II, who visited here in 1987 and was canonized in 2014.

An Unexpected Connection to the Camino de Santiago

As we toured some of these Missions, Henk and I could see why they had been recognized by UNESCO in 2015 for their cultural, spiritual and architectural significance. But it was only when we met with the Honourable Rebecca Simmons, Executive Director of the San Antonio Missions, that we learned that in 2021, the route encompassing San Antonio’s 5 Missions was formally recognized as a partner by the Pilgrimage Office of the Compostela Camino as well. Which came as a surprise to us, given that it is over 4800 miles away from Santiago.

It turns out that Rebecca was instrumental in gaining this designation, having been heavily involved in the development of the route and personally making presentations and trips to Spain to pitch the ecclesiastical powers that be. Thanks to her initiative and perseverance, today any pilgrim who completes the Texan route receives a stamp and a 30km ‘credit’ towards completion of the European Camino’s English Way. How very cool is that.

TIP: The 4 Missions on the Camino de San Antonio are administered under the National Parks Service and are free to visit. They also offer guided tours.
At Mission San Jose, you can also visit the Margil Center to learn more about the Camino de San Antonio or visit the Camino’s website.

A Famous Former Mission: the Alamo

In our exploration of San Antonio’s history of the Camino and its Missions, Henk and I of course had to visit the most famous now-former Mission of all: Mission San Antonio de Valero, better known today as The Alamo.

NOTE: The Alamo is no longer considered an official part of the Camino of San Antonio since the church itself has been deconsecrated, but it was of course originally a Spanish mission, and an important historic and spiritual site for people of both European and Indigenous backgrounds. In fact that same Father Jesús who founded Mission San Jose lived here for more than a year before establishing his own community.

The battle of the Alamo and its legendary figures like Davy Crockett and General Antonio López de Santa Anna (who defeated and killed Crockett and all 200+ of the Texas defenders here) has fascinated people for generations, even though the characters have been exaggerated in many respects thanks to Hollywood. One thing that has remained true, however, is the historical and emotional significance of this battle in galvanizing the people of Texas to fight for their independence. In battles that followed the Alamo, with the rallying cry of “Remember the Alamo!”, those freedom fighters did gain their independence from Mexico and established their own Republic of Texas – which for 10 years existed before becoming part of the United States of America.

The former church is still the centre of the Alamo today, as this was the ‘last stand’ for the freedom-fighting defenders, and there are tours that explain the role that it played in the battle. The Alamo site also has a museum, which is where Henk and I discovered another unexpected connection.

The Alamo and Phil Collins

Having learned about the link between El Camino de San Antonio and the European Compostela Camino, Henk and I were surprised to learn of another surprising partnership, this time one that links the Alamo to the famous British musician Phil Collins.

Apparently, as a very young boy, Collins had become fascinated with the stories of Davy Crockett and the battle of the Alamo and even from an early age began to collect Alamo memorabilia. As Collin’s success as a musician grew, so did the breadth and value of his Alamo collection. By 2017 he had amassed the largest private collection of original Alamo relics and artefacts, including rarities like a rifle and leather pouch that had belonged to Crockett himself.

It was at this point that Collins decided to donate the collection to the Alamo historical organization, (valued at close to $60 million dollars), a legacy that did come with a few conditions, however: the Texas General Land Office who runs the Alamo site would need to break 100-year leases held by surrounding businesses and developments in order to re-establish the original boundaries of the site; they would need to tell the history of the site from all perspectives including the indigenous, Mexican and Texan peoples; and they would commit to building a world class museum on the site, which they did and that is set to open in 2027.

Today, visitors can view many of the important pieces of the Phil Collins collection in the existing museum, and there is a helpful diorama of the original fort that illustrates how the Battle of the Alamo unfolded, with Collins himself voicing the narration.

TIP: Visiting the former church at the Alamo is free, but you still need to reserve a ticket to enter. However, if you’d like to see the collections inside its museum or take one of several guided tours, there’s a cost. Visit the The Alamo website to see the different fees and to book tours.

A Mission of Discovery in San Antonio

Our visit to San Antonio introduced us to a few unexpected surprises, the first one being El Camino de San Antonio and its 5 official stops, and their connection to the Camino de Santiago in Spain. That led us to explore some of these Missions on our own, photographing their beauty and learning more about their contribution to the culture of this region and its unique people. We also learned about a connection between the legendary Battle of the Alamo and a legendary British rock musician, something we certainly weren’t expecting.

Apparently San Antonio is full of surprises, and although our visit to this southwest Texas city certainly wasn’t a spiritual pilgrimage, it did prove to be a mission of discovery, nonetheless.

Special thanks to Visit San Antonio who hosted Henk and I for part of our visit, and introduced us to El Camino de San Antonio.