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A San Antonio Tamale Tutorial
Okay class, listen up. If we’re being sticklers for language, the singular form of the popular, corn-husk-wrapped
Holiday Tamale-Making Tradition
A tamalada is a festive event at which families get together to make these treats for the holiday season. And one final thing: Yes, you remove the husk first. (We forgive you former President Gerald Ford. Hispanic culture has so pervaded the country since your understandable gaffe in front of the Alamo that the mistake would not now be made.)
History of the Tamale
Now that that’s settled, how about a little history? Tamales have been around since well before Cortez confronted Montezuma in Tenochtitlan in 1519. Although the maize-based tortilla predated them, archaeological records indicate that tamales – thought of then, as now, as a celebration food – were being consumed around the pyramids of the sun and moon in central Mexico as early as 250 B.C. Also then, as now, they were made by spreading corn masa made of dried corn, simmered with lime and ground on a stone metate into rehydrated, dried corn husks, adding a flavoring (usually a paste of chiles or some bits of wild game or beans) then wrapping and steaming the packets in a clay cazeula.
The Tamaleda
At the tamaladas that take place in kitchens all over San Antonio in advance of the holidays, this process hasn’t changed at all in its essence. True, aluminum steamers have replaced earthen ollas, and masa can either be bought from a molino or made from a dried masa de harina purchased at many grocery stores. Traditionalists will still beat lard into the masa until a pinched portion will float in a glass of water.
And, yes, though beans are always a part of the plan as they were in the Aztec court, fillings now routinely include stewed chicken, shredded pork previously cooked with cumin, chili powder and garlic powder, and even ground beef. A green or red chile sauce may be added to the stuffed masa before cooking, or the sauce may be reserved for anointing after unwrapping.
Exclusively during the holidays, sweet tamales spangled with raisins, pecans and coconut may also be assembled; they’re especially good with the cinnamon-spiced hot chocolate that’s another holiday staple.
Tamale-Making Classes
Not invited to a tamalada? Not to worry. The tradition has become so popular that the San Antonio Public Library and the Witte Museum also get into the act starting in November. The public library’s tamal-making classes, which are followed by a free viewing of the charming play, Las Nuevas Tamaleras (a tamalera is a tamale maker of the female persuasion), are usually fully booked by early November, so plan ahead.
Tamale Festival at Pearl Brewery
The Pearl Brewery at the River Walk's north end hosts an annual tamale festival and competition in early December that celebrates all things tamale.
Take Tamales Home or Give Them as Gifts
Tamales make great holiday gifts or travel well right home to your own freezer, where they keep well. The San Antonio phone book lists 23 sources for tamales. Delicious Tamales, one of the city’s biggest purveyors, make tamales year ‘round, but their serious season begins in early November. “Regular” tamales here include pork, bean and chicken (plus jalapeños can be added to all of the above) and they routinely include cheese.
Eat Tamales at San Antonio Restaurants
Tamales are a traditional component of the popular Mexican dinner plate year ‘round. The combination of tamales and mariachis at Mi Tierra on Produce Row makes for an especially festive holiday occasion. You can have them (the tamales, not the mariachis) simply mantled with chili meat gravy or cohabiting with enchiladas, crispy tacos, chili con queso, guacamole, even a beef steak ranchero. The Aztecs would be astonished – but they’d also feel just a little at home.
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