From iconic eateries to fusion-fueled bistros, San Antonio’s culinary scene is as vibrant, eclectic and undeniably Latin (and German, and Southern, and Asian and French) as the city itself.

San Antonio’s story is spicy no matter how you look at it, but the heat really gets turned up when the topic is food: We claim ancestors in eats from around the globe, but in the minds of most, it’s Mexico that matters. And why not? San Antonians have put their own spin on Mexican foods, but when sampled at sources such as Rosario’s, these are roots we’re happy to reveal.

The fajita came north from vaqueros working cattle; we claim to have popularized it at La Margarita and Mi Tierra – and Mi Tierra can also claim to have introduced generations to pan dulce through its colorful pastry case. Iconic El Mirador is famed for its traditional Saturday soups, but it also offers creative tacos de langosta (lobster, no less). Tacos – especially at breakfast when egg and potato jibe with earthy chorizo – are tops at popular Taco Haven. And at Los Barrios and its offspring La Hacienda, San Antonio is summed up in a superior tequila selection and plates such as Enchiladas Mexicanas with crumbled white cheese and a lusty red chile sauce.

Most first-time visitors to San Antonio don’t expect to find that German influence is second only to Mexican in everything from architecture to eats. The German-founded King William historic district boasts both – in the Pioneer Flour Mill and its Guenther House restaurant, blending the best of Germany and the Old South. But for potato salad and split pea soup morning to night, the destination is Schilo’s – boasting brats and wursts and specials like corned beef and cabbage.

Germany and the South come together again in the Texas tradition of barbecue, and San Antonio is a serious source of its centerpiece, pit-smoked brisket. At Rudy’s multiple locations, brisket takes front and center, backed by pork, turkey and more, but the sauce has become almost as sought-after. The Smokehouse represents the quintessential smoky joint with a paragon of offerings such as lip-smacking lamb ribs. At Tom’s Ribs, the menu isn’t confined to the title product, but baby backs rule regardless – along with sturdy short ribs.

If German influence is unexpected here, Asian is even more so – but there’s a reason: San Antonio’s military bases. Returning servicemen frequently brought brides, and the result was Asia Kitchen with its Thai-based noodles and curries, and Ilsong Garden, where a queen of Korean cuisine holds court. Other Thais to try include Tong’s for northern curry, and Thai Spice. Vietnam on Broadway first intro-duced us to that country’s elegant cuisine, and Niki’s Tokyo Inn turned the city onto sushi decades ago.

Indian restaurants are newcomers, in contrast. Sarovar, with its southern bias, and India Oven, with its tandoor-cooked rack of lamb, are among the city’s best.

San Antonio’s contemporary chefs draw on all of these influences and more. Yes, there are traditionalists out there, notably Damien Watel of the French-focused Bistro Vatel. But we find local influences creeping into the dishes at L’Etoile and Le Rêve, and Scott Cohen of Las Canarias makes it a point to visit area farms to source menu items. Biga’s influential Bruce Auden has always incorporated Asian accents, and even when making Mediterranean moves, chefs such as The Lodge’s Jason Dady can’t help but infuse flavors from the local scene. Texas cooking is raised to a new level, too, at places such as Boudro’s. And left-leaning (literally) Liberty Bar blends traditional Texas with equally classic Mexican.

The San Antonio New World Wine & Food Festival in November showcases San Antonio cuisine in all its variety, while exploring its roots in the regions of Mexico. Opportunities to explore malbecs and merlots at seminars, and to witness a cowboy-gaucho cook-off at the family-friendly Totally Tejas fair, only hint at the event’s scope. Winemaker lunches and dinners test chefs and vintages; river cruises showcase Texas wines and foods; and the best of San Antonio meets Mexico y mas at the annual San Antonio New World Wine & Food Festival.